In the world of high fashion, few names evoke the same level of intrigue, reverence, and intellectual curiosity as Comme des Garçons. Founded by Rei Kawakubo in 1969, the brand has transcended traditional fashion expectations to Commes De Garcon become a language of its own—one that speaks through abstract silhouettes, disruptive materials, and layered cultural commentary. Comme des Garçons’ runway shows are not just seasonal displays of wearable fashion; they are conceptual performances that challenge the very definition of beauty, identity, and clothing. This blog explores the deep symbolism embedded within Comme des Garçons’ most iconic runway presentations, revealing the artistic and philosophical undercurrents that animate Kawakubo’s creations.
Beyond Clothing: The Body as Canvas
Comme des Garçons frequently transforms the body into an abstract medium, reshaping and reconfiguring it to evoke deeper meanings. Traditional silhouettes are often exaggerated, obscured, or erased entirely. In the 1997 “Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body” collection, dubbed the “lumps and bumps” collection by critics, Kawakubo inserted padded protuberances under stretch fabric garments, creating grotesque and misshapen forms. The media found it jarring, but Kawakubo was not trying to flatter the body—she was questioning the expectations society places on it.
This distortion of form challenges the audience to reconsider what is attractive and confronts the often oppressive standards of the fashion industry. The collection wasn’t just a visual shock; it was a philosophical statement about freedom of expression and the tyranny of the “ideal” body.
Symbolism in Materials and Texture
Material selection in Comme des Garçons’ work is never random. Kawakubo often mixes luxurious fabrics with raw, industrial, or mundane ones. Tulle, organza, and lace might be slashed, burned, or deconstructed, creating a tension between fragility and violence. In her 2012 collection, materials such as felt, leather, and vinyl were layered and manipulated in ways that resembled armor, suggesting themes of protection and vulnerability.
There’s a deeply metaphorical language in the way Kawakubo treats fabric. By disrupting traditional material hierarchies, she encourages viewers to question why certain fabrics are considered elegant or refined while others are deemed inferior. In essence, she democratizes the material world and forces fashion to confront its own prejudices.
The Politics of Identity
Comme des Garçons’ work is deeply engaged with themes of identity—gender, nationality, and personal autonomy. Many collections explore the fluidity of gender, deliberately blending masculine and feminine aesthetics. Tailored jackets paired with voluminous skirts, or dresses layered over trousers, destabilize binary thinking. Kawakubo has repeatedly stated that she is not interested in making women more beautiful in the conventional sense; instead, she seeks to give them power and independence through clothing.
One of the brand’s most striking commentaries on identity came in the 2015 Fall/Winter collection, which was described by many as “funeral attire.” Models walked the runway in black sculptural ensembles resembling mourning garb, invoking both individual grief and collective memory. The show was widely interpreted as a meditation on loss, aging, and the passage of time—a rare and somber reflection in an industry obsessed with youth and newness.
The Theater of the Runway
Runway shows for Comme des Garçons are choreographed with an acute awareness of atmosphere and symbolism. They are theatrical experiences that employ sound, staging, and even lighting as symbolic extensions of the garments themselves. In the Spring/Summer 2014 show, the models emerged in a dark, shadowy space wearing bulbous, floral forms that seemed more like wearable sculptures than clothes. The ambiance was more funeral procession than fashion show, drawing attention to the transience of beauty and the ephemeral nature of life.
These productions often forsake the typical conventions of walking and posing, instead inviting models to perform, stand still, or interact with each other in choreographed routines. This rejection of standard runway norms further amplifies the surreal, dreamlike quality of Comme des Garçons’ fashion storytelling.
Historical and Cultural Echoes
Kawakubo frequently draws inspiration from historical dress, religious iconography, and cultural symbols. Her Fall/Winter 2018 collection, for example, featured pieces inspired by 18th-century European aristocratic fashion, layered with punk and street-style influences. These historical references aren’t nostalgic but rather critical, using the visual language of the past to question the power dynamics, gender roles, and social structures that still linger in the present.
Religious undertones are also a recurring motif. Garments resembling cassocks, veils, and robes suggest themes of spirituality, penitence, or devotion. These elements are often placed in contrast with contemporary streetwear references, creating a complex dialogue between the sacred and the profane, the eternal and the ephemeral.
Resistance to Commercialism
Comme des Garçons’ runway creations are rarely about sellability. In fact, many of the pieces shown are never produced for retail at all. This deliberate choice speaks to Kawakubo’s commitment to artistic integrity over commercial success. By decoupling her work from the constraints of market trends and seasonal demands, she preserves a space for fashion as pure expression.
This approach also resists the commodification of identity. In an age when fashion is increasingly aligned with branding, influencer culture, and consumerist identity, Comme des Garçons stands as a form of quiet—or sometimes loud—resistance. Its symbolism lies in what it refuses to do just as much as in what it chooses to present.
The Role of Ambiguity
One of the defining features of Comme des Garçons’ symbolic universe is its intentional ambiguity. Kawakubo rarely explains her collections, preferring instead to leave them open to interpretation. This ambiguity invites audiences to engage more deeply, to bring their own experiences and thoughts into the interpretive space of the runway.
For instance, in the Spring/Summer 2017 collection titled “The Future of Silhouettes,” critics and fans alike debated whether the voluminous shapes represented liberation, oppression, or transformation. The lack of definitive answers is part of the magic—it keeps the work alive in conversation, always relevant and never fully deciphered.
Comme des Garçons as Conceptual Art
Many critics and scholars argue that Comme des Garçons blurs the line between fashion and conceptual art. Kawakubo has said that her work “starts from nothingness,” a statement that resonates with the principles of minimalist and conceptual artists. She constructs not just garments but ideas, challenging the viewer to see the runway as a philosophical space rather than a commercial one.
This positioning elevates her work beyond trend cycles or seasonal fads. A Comme des Garçons show becomes a moment of collective reflection, a mirror to society’s anxieties and aspirations. It is as much a question as it is a statement.
A Legacy of Provocation
Over the decades, Comme des Garçons has become synonymous with provocation—not for its own sake, but as a means of inciting critical thought. Each collection, with its rich layers of symbolism, pushes viewers to examine not only fashion but also the social constructs it reflects and perpetuates. Whether tackling themes of war, gender, death, or rebirth, Kawakubo’s work remains persistently courageous in its refusal to conform.
In a fashion landscape dominated by predictable narratives and glossy perfection, Comme des Garçons reminds us that clothing can still be Comme Des Garcons Long Sleeve disruptive, profound, and even radical. It asks us not just to look, but to see. Not just to admire, but to question.
Conclusion
Decoding the symbolism in Comme des Garçons’ runway creations reveals a brand that functions far beyond the boundaries of fashion. Rei Kawakubo’s vision challenges societal norms, invites philosophical inquiry, and embraces ambiguity. Her runway shows serve as cultural critiques and poetic reflections on identity, materiality, and the human condition.
As fashion continues to evolve in the digital age, the work of Comme des Garçons stands as a powerful testament to the enduring value of conceptual depth. In every twisted seam, every voluminous silhouette, and every silent model, Kawakubo whispers questions we must all answer for ourselves.